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İngiltere 'de 2022 yılında enflasyon, son 40 yılın en yüksek seviyelerine çıkarak yüzde 11'in üzerine çıkmış, ancak nisan ayında yüzde 8'lere gerilemiştir. Bu enflasyonun etkilerinden en çok etkilenen kesim, küçük işletmeler ve orta-dar gelirli kesim oldu. Ayrıca, İngiliz İstatistik Ofisi'nin (ONS ) mayıs ayındaki bir araştırmasına göre, nüfusun yüzde 92'si en büyük sorunun hayat pahalılığı olduğunu görüyor. Sağlık hizmetlerine erişim ise ikinci en büyük sorun olarak ortaya çıkıyor.
Araştırmaya göre, nüfusun yüzde 73'ü ekonomik gidişattan endişe duyarken, yüzde 60'ı iklim değişikliğini önemli bir kriz olarak görmektedir. Gıda fiyatlarındaki artıştan dolayı ise İngiltere 'deki yetişkin nüfusun yüzde 97'si bu durumdan rahatsızlık duyuyor. Bu ekonomik tablo içinde, alım gücünün azalmasıyla birlikte İngiliz ler yeni tüketim alışkanlıkları geliştirmekte ve daha iyi yaşam koşullarını yakalamaya çalışıyor. Bu nedenle, perakendede ikinci el alışveriş, kilo ile giysi satışı ve günlük kıyafetlerin kiralama gibi trendler son zamanlarda oldukça yaygın hale geldi. İngiltere'deki ekonomik krize değinen Sabah gazetesinden Hülya Güler'in bugünkü yazısı şöyle;
KİLOGRAMI 30 POUND Aslında ikinci el giysi satışı İngilizlerin aşina oldukları bir alışveriş. Bağış yoluyla toplanan giysileri (ve pek çok farklı ürünü) ihtiyaç sahipleri hemen her semtte görebileceğiniz 'charity shop'larda (hayır kurumu mağazası) çok düşük fiyatlara satın alırlar. Ama son bir-iki yıldır ikinci el giysi satışı, vakıf ve derneklere gelir sağlayan hayır işlerinden farklı bir boyut kazandı. Özellikle alım gücünün düşmesinden şikâyet eden dar gelirli kesimin yöneldiği ikinci el alışverişte kilogram ile ürün satan mağazalar öne çıkıyor.
Bunlardan biri Londra 'nın turistik merkezlerinden Covent Garden 'da da karşıma çıkınca dayanamayıp kilo ile giysi alışverişini deneyimledim. Almanya 'da da şubeleri bulunan Picknweight Vintgage Kilo Sale mağazasına girdiğimde beni 'kilo ile nasıl alışveriş yapabilirsiniz' tabelası karşıladı. Tahmin edeceğiniz gibi seçtiğiniz ürünleri tartıp bir fiyat veriyorlar. Mağazanın çeşitli yerlerinde tartılar var ve siz de o giysinin fiyatını gramına göre belirleyebiliyorsunuz. İçeride 1960'lardan, 70'lere ve hatta daha eskilere giden çeşitli markalarda ayakkabıdan tutun, her türlü ikinci el giyim eşyası satılıyor. Ürünlerin üzerinde farklı renklerde etiketler var.
Bu renkler kilogram fiyatının ne kadar olduğunu gösteriyor. Ürünlerin kilosu 30 pounddan, 110 pounda kadar değişiyor. Daha çok markalı vintage ürünler sattığını söyleyen Picknweight'in aksine her şeyin kilosunun 30 pound olduğu ikinci el mağaza zincirleri de var. Kilo Sale bunlardan biri. İlk olarak online satışla başlayıp şimdi mağazalaşan Go Thrift's de bir diğer örnek. Bu arada kilo ile giysi satışı yapan bazı yeni oluşumlar ülke genelinde mağazalaşamadıkları için gezici çadır mağazalarla farklı şehirlere gidiyorlar. Sosyal medyada satış günlerini ve şehirleri duyuran girişimlerin de sayısı az değil.
İngiltere merkezli OC&C Strategy Cons ultants'ın şubat ayında yayınladığı rapora göre dünyada ikinci el pazarı Çin hariç 180 milyar dolar büyüklüğünde. 2027'de 330 milyar dolar olacağı öngörülüyor. İngiltere'de ise ikinci el giysi alışverişi 2020-2021 ve 2022'de yüzde 100'ün üzerinde büyüdü. Giderek 'düşen alım gücü', araştırmaya katılanların ikinci el tercih etmesinin birinci nedeni olarak ortaya çıkıyor. İkinci neden ise sürdürülebilirlik... Araştırmada Z jenerasyonunun 'hem cebime hem çevreye dost' diyerek ikinci el alışverişe önceki kuşaklara göre yüzde 50 daha yakın olduğu belirtiliyor. ThredUP'ın araştırmasına göre İngiltere'de ikinci el moda pazarı 2029'da hızlı moda pazarını geçecek.
H&M'DEN 'HERKES ŞIK OLSUN' DİYE GİYSİ KİRALAMA HİZMETİ Uluslararası hazır giyim markası H&M'in Londra'nın lüks caddelerinden Regent Street'teki mağazasında ilginç bir hizmete başlamış. Mağazanın hemen girişinde sizi karşılayan 'H&M Rental' tabelası ile duyurulan bu yeni uygulama ile kiralama bölümüne konan giysileri tüketiciler bir haftalığına kiralıyorlar. Henüz yeni başlayan bu hizmetten yararlanmak için öne H&M'in internet sitesinden üye olmanız ve bir depozito yatırmanız gerekiyor.
Ardından şimdilik tek mağazada verilen bu hizmetten yararlanmak için randevu alıp giysileri denemeniz kiralamak yeterli. Turist olmanız da giysi kiralamak için engel değil. Mağaza görevlisine bu hizmetin nedenini sordum, "İnsanlar özel bir gün için bir kereliğine giyeceği giysiyi her zaman alamayabilir. Kiralama ile herkese şık olma fırsatı vermek istedik" dedi. Bu mavi elbiseyi bir haftalağına 40 pounda kiralayabiliyorsunuz.
TİŞÖRT 300 GRAM PANTOLON 500 İnternette konuyla ilgili o kadar çok bilgi bulmak mümkün ki, hangi giysinin aşağı yukarı kaç gram olduğuna ilişkin rehberler bile var. Örneğin bir fikir vermesi açısından tişörtler, ince kumaşlı elbiseler genellikle 300 gram geliyor. Ceketler bir kiloyu buluyor, pantolonlar ise 500 gram. Özetle 30-40 pounda baştan aşağı giyinmek mümkün.